May 6, 2013

Boxer Zeus Watch Review

Boxer Zeus Watch Review
Boxer Zeus Skeletonized Watch Review
  Today I am taking a hands on look at the Boxer Zeus. This is Boxer's flagship watch and is not a typical style of watch reviewed here on W&R. That said, I have always found skeletonized watches of interest. There is something so pure about being able to see a watches movement in action. Often covered by the dial and case back. Especially, with the ever growing popularity of dive watches.
  The watch has a large wrist presence, coming in at 45mm. In this day of bigger is better in the watch industry Zeus fits the bill. The outer stainless steel bezel that surrounds the case has a skeletonized look of it's own. Makes the face almost look like it is floating. The movement is not anything special, nor would I expect it to be at a price point of around $157 US at today's exchange rate. That said, it never gets old watching a mechanical movement or showing a non-watch person a movement in action. Boxer's website states the movement has a power reserve of 24-36 hours. The Zeus I reviewed was around 26-28 hours of reserve. Definitely, on the low side. On a winder or as a daily wear, the power reserve is a non issue. Especially, since the watch does not have a date feature.
  Noticeably missing from the dial and case back is any Boxer branding. Rather refreshing to see a brand take a step back from sticking their name in any conceivable location. Making the watch, all about the watch. Their are gold indices applied to the underside of the mineral crystal. These definitely get lost in all the gold tone throughout the watch. The hands do have applied lume, giving them a white contrast against the movement beneath. I wish the hands were a bit larger. Would like to see the hour and minute hands extend out to the indices for easier legibility. The finish of the watch is lacking, mostly on the case back where you can see the different finishing lines in the stainless steel. All that said, I appreciate what Boxer is trying to do. Create an non-mass produced skeletonized watch at a reasonable price point. 

Pros - skeletonized, affordable
Consideration - fit/finish, legibility

Specifications & Dimensions:
Case: Stainless Steel
Case Diameter: 45mm
Strap: Black Leather
Lug Width: 20mm
Crystal: Smooth Glass
Bezel: Stainless Steel
Movement: Chinese origin
Power Reserve: 24-36 hours
Water Resistant: 50M

May 1, 2013

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Basel 2013

Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Basel 2013
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Basel 2013
  Blancpain is so well respected and the Fifty Fathoms line continues to strengthen on past success. Here is another representation of years past. More and more brands are marketing on history. For good reason, there is a lot of competition out there in this crowded market space. Anytime you can create further speperation from the pack, the better. Not all brands have such a great history, Blancpain continues to impress. 
Blancpain Press Release:
  Since its creation in 1953, the Fifty Fathoms by Blancpain has been the archetypal modern diver’s watch. 60 years on, two new models join a lineage that has earned iconic status. The vintage-inspired Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe presented in a 2013 men’s and women’s version incorporates the latest watch industry developments with the silicon balance-spring. Inspired by the abyssal underwater exploration of Swiss adventurer Jacques Piccard, Blancpain’s Bathyscaphe diver’s watches were introduced in the late 1950s as models for both men and women. Imbued with the spirit of these historical models, the new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe offers a reinterpretation of these two models featuring the integration of the latest technical innovations.
  Various elements of the 2013 version hark back to the first editions. The contours are as sharply defined as those of their predecessors. The hands feature the traditional look of the vintage watches and the date appears through a dedicated aperture. Loyal to the original Bathyscaphe version, the luminescent dot on the bezel serves to ensure the permanent readability of diving times. Testifying to the past while looking firmly to the future, the new models incorporate modern Blancpain calibres renowned for their robustness and reliability. The heart of each of the mechanical self-winding movements beats at 28,800 vibrations per hour.
  Another novel feature for Blancpain is the graduated scale in Liquidmetal®. This amorphous metal alloy avoids any deformation and ensures perfect bonding with the ceramic bezel insert. The hardness of these two materials serves to enhance the bezel’s scratch resistance. Like all diver’s watches worth their salt, each model is equipped with a unidirectional bezel activated by turning it counter-clockwise in one-minute increments. During dives, the seconds serves as an operating indicator, while a contrasting dial and luminescent gold hour-markers ensure optimal readability. The new Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe is naturally water-resistant to 30 bar, equivalent to around 300 metres.
  Each model is fitted with a triple-loop NATO strap. This broad and extremely practical wristband is as reliable and robust as the watch itself. Introduced in the 1960s when the British Ministry of Defence was looking for a sturdy strap to equip its military watches, its origins are echoed in its name that is a nod to its reference code: NATO G10.

Specifications & Dimensions:
Case: Stainless Steel
Case Diameter: 43mm
Strap: NATO 
Lug Width: 22mm
Crystal: Sapphire
Bezel: Unidirectional w/ ceramic insert
Movement: Caliber 1315
Power Reserve: N/A
Water Resistant: 300M

Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue Basel

Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue Basel 2013
  Tudor! Yes, finally available in the United States. A much longed for and desired request. Now the US and the rest of the world will be able to get their hands on these handsome and timeless Tudors. Just released at Baselworld 2013 is this historic reincarnation from 1973. Tudor has done a good job with with their "throwback" watches to yesteryear. This Heritage Blue Chrono is no different. Extremely well executed and will look amazing on the wrist. The only gripe W&R has is that the watch will not be inexpensive and is packing a standard ETA 2892. Maybe with watch prices these days, this is the new norm...For the vast majority who do not even now what movement is in the watch, it really doesn't matter. This would be a great addition to most collections. Well done aesthetically, with history to back it up. 

Tudor Press Release:
  The TUDOR “Montecarlo” chronograph is an absolute icon. Since its launch in 1973, it has been produced in a number of different versions, the most fascinating featured distinctive touches of blue, grey and orange. This rare, historic chronograph was produced for only a few years. Today, it is greatly prized by collectors and is steadily increasing in value. To revitalise this legendary chronograph – imbued with the spirit of chic, sophisticated holiday destinations of the 1960s and 1970s, and reminiscent of carefree Mediterranean warmth and glamour – TUDOR has decided to reinterpret it and unveil the new TUDOR Heritage Chrono Blue. TUDOR’s approach to the design of this watch was exactly the same as for all the watches in the Heritage line since 2010. Far from being merely a new version, it is a unique reinterpretation in which past, present and future converge in both time and style.


  While all the aesthetic codes that contributed to the recognition of the historic model remain – a synthesis of the original spirit of the timepiece and a faithful reproduction of its key characteristics – TUDOR’s Style Workshop has added many modern touches to update the iconic spirit of this watch and endow it with a timeless strength to make it “tomorrow’s icon”. The royal blue of the original model (1973) combines with a slightly lighter grey than that of the original to give birth to a watch as much at home in water as on land, radiating the Mediterranean spirit and its warmth. Inspired by history, but completely redesigned, the dial now has three-dimensional hour markers with two bevelled metallic edges defi ning an area fi lled with SuperLuminova for a stronger image and optimal legibility. It also features two counters located inside two blue trapezoidal shapes, one at 3 o’clock for the small seconds hand, and one at 9 o’clock for the famous 45-minute counter that marked the history of TUDOR chronographs in the 1970s.
  Waterproof to a depth of 150 metres (500 feet), the steel case, 42 mm in diameter (compared with 40 mm on the original) has a bidirectional bezel with a blue anodized aluminium insert. Under its sapphire crystal, it houses a self-winding mechanical chronograph movement with a 42-hour power reserve. As an additional refinement, TUDOR’s new Heritage Chrono Blue comes with two bracelets, one in steel with a folding clasp, the other in reinforced fabric with a buckle. The fabric strap – the outcome of cooperation with a firm still carrying on the age-old art of traditional weaving – echoes the characteristic colours of the dial and provides exceptional wearing comfort: an extra touch for a chronograph that takes its inspiration from history but makes an utterly contemporary statement.

Specifications & Dimensions:
Case: Stainless Steel
Case Diameter: 42mm
Strap: Stainless Steel or Fabric
Lug Width: Not comfirmed, check back
Crystal: Sapphire
Bezel: Bidirectional
Movement: ETA 2892
Power Reserve: 42 hours
Water Resistant: 150M

April 3, 2013

Marvin Malton Cushion M119 Review

  Today W&R will be taking an in depth look at a stunning and affordable timepiece by Marvin Watch. This is the Malton Khaki (ref.M119.13.64.97) from Marvin's Malton 160 Collection. I remember the first time I saw an ad about 2+ years back for this specific model. If I recall correctly, I was thumbing through International Watch mag at the time. I remember because most watch ads are rather mundane to be honest. The Marvin ad had the M119 Khaki sitting on lily pad, with a tree frog wearing a crown, perched on top of the watch. The only thing the ad said beyond branding was "DON'T KISS THIS PAGE". Why was this so great? Because it was comical, memorable, and yet did not distract from showcasing the watch. Since then I have referred to this particular model and color combo as the "Frog" watch. 
  When first unboxing the Malton, I was pleasantly surprised to find Marvin did not overlook or cut corners on packaging. As they say in life "only one shot at a first impression", Marvin was off to a great start. 
Marvin Packaging
  The M119 is from Marvin's "Malton 160 Collection" in recognition of the now past 160th year anniversary. Marvin has been keeping time since 1850. Onto the watch, W&R has always been a huge fan of cushion style cases. Marvin used a combination of high polish and brushed stainless steel finishes. The balance between these two finishes allows the watch to be very versatile, whether dress or casual. Green? Not many green watches out there in the wild. Just fine by W&R, as this green works very well and looks fantastic. Marvin calls it Khaki on their website. The dial is more of a rich olive green and the leather strap is an exact match as well. The textured dial gives the watch a bit depth visually. In low light settings the dial can almost appear to be black at times. Overall, the dial is uncluttered and easy to read, thanks to the large applied indices and numerals. Not much lume, with exception of the hour and minute hands. Bad for you lume lovers, but great for a more dressed up/casual looking watch. As with all Marvin watches, there is the traditional touch of red located at the 8 o'clock position on the chapter ring.
  As seen in the pics, the large date window shows previous, current, and the next date. There are two little white "hashes" in the middle of the window, indicating the correct date to read. The date wheel changes accurately, quickly, and lines up in between the hashes perfectly. 
Marvin Malton Cushion M119
  The Malton is powered by the increasingly popular Sellita SW200 automatic movement, with a 38 hour power reserve. Being a bit of an accuracy "snob" here at W&R, it was time to put the Malton's SW200 to the test. Timed it against the world clock, consistently +2 per day over a two day testing period (tested twice per day). Is the watch COSC certified? Nope, but it ran well within the required specs to be certified. Nice. The case back is skeletonized showing off the SW200. The visible rotor has Marvin's touch of humor labeled "The Swing", followed by Marvin's signature "crown" on the rotor. The Malton can easily be  hand wound by the push in crown. The crown is octagonal in shape and bit larger than average for easy gripping. Not being a screw down crown, it is water resistant to only 50m. 
Marvin Malton Sellita SW200
  The leather strap is out of the box ready to go. Meaning, it is very soft and malleable. If you have ever had some "other" leather straps, you can likely appreciate Marvin's strap the moment it hits your wrist. Saved the best for last, the cushion case. Love a good cushion case. Marvin hit nothing shy of a home run on case design. Beautiful attention to detail throughout the Malton's case. 
This cushion is 42x42 and only 12mm thick. Relatively thin considering the shift to much larger watches over the last 10 years. W&R believes that 42mm is the new 40mm. Think back not all to long agon when 38mm was norm for mens watches. The watch is very light, especially on the leather strap. It is offered on a stainless steel bracelet as well. That said, this watch was meant to be on a strap and the only way to go in W&R opinion. 
  In general, Marvin watches offer a great value. This Malton comes in at $1,250 USD. Outside of microbrands, there are not many watch manufactures that offer this much watch and detail for the money. Try something new, go green! To learn more about pricing, etc., click here Shop Marvin Malton 

Pros - fit/finish, cushion case, attention to detail, skeletonized case back
Consideration - 50m water resistance

Specifications & Dimensions:
Case: Stainless Steel
Case Diameter: 42mm
Strap: Khaki/Green leather
Lug Width: 22mm
Crystal: AR Coated Sapphire
Bezel: High Polish
Movement: Sellita SW200
Power Reserve: 38 hours
Water Resistant: 50M

March 24, 2013

Basel 2013 Concord C1 Chronograph Review

Basel 2013 Concord C1 Chronograph
Pre-Baselworld 2013 Concord C1 Chronograph
  W&R has enjoyed the evolution of the C1 over the years, though, never written about them here. This is new improved C1, from a standpoint of wearability (smaller case) and legibility. For a chronograph, the textured dial is relatively uncluttered, with masculine hour and minute hands. No doubt this watch C1 Chronograph from Concord will set you back pretty penny. The good news is you are never likely to see it on another persons wrist besides your own.
Press Release:
  Concord unveils its legendary chronograph from a completely new angle. The C1 Chronograph shows how an emblematic design has brilliantly evolved to remain perfectly aligned with the times. Sharing the same DNA and avant-garde personality as its slightly larger older sibling, this new timepiece has no trouble making its mark with a marginally smaller crown, improved readability, and a wrist-hugging, ergonomic case. Like the reference model, the new C1 Chronograph stands out for a sophisticated design with an artful blend of high-tech materials, including eight ceramic inserts around the distinctive bezel. A brilliant demonstration of Concord's talent for beautiful timepieces that cut to the essence.

Pros - smaller, easy to read dial, ceramic inlays
Consideration - integrated strap highly limits most change out options

Specifications & Dimensions:
Case: Titanium
Case Diameter: 47mm
Strap: Rubberized Black Alligator
Crystal: Sapphire 
Bezel: Ceramic Inserts
Movement: Automatic
Power Reserve: 48 hours
Water Resistant: 200M