March 23, 2012

New Tudor Pelagos Diver Baselworld Review

New Tudor Pelagos Diver Baselworld Watch Review

  Tudor (relative of Rolex) released a serious new diver for 2012, the Tudor Pelagos Diver. This is about as close to a perfect diver as they get. Tudor used the snowflake hour hand on the Pelagos and square hour markers, both Tudor throwbacks to days past. Done in blue lume that sets the watch off nicely. While the case is made of brushed titanium. Beyond this, it is not difficult to see the Rolex influence in the case and bracelet design. 
  The Pelagos has a helium escape valve (HEV) and non-cyclops date window at 3 o’clock, very reminiscent the classic Rolex Sea Dweller. It is also rated to 500m, that is 200m more than the Rolex Sub. Pelagos does not stop there, the bezel has a scratch resist Cerachrom insert, basically ceramic. THE BEST aspect of the Pelagos is the all new proprietary clasp. Not only does the clasp have a divers extension and micro adjustment, it has a free adjustment zone. What this means is as a diver goes deeper the wrist contracts, as the wrist contracts or gets smaller the free adjustment zone automatically changes with the wrist. The watch does not become loose as the wrist changes with the environment. This aspect of the clasp is spring loaded and is the key to the new technological break through. Genius! Tudor uses a basic ETA 2824 automatic movement, granted, it is a proven reliable movement. For those in the United States, still no love, no US distribution. Tudor did a great job of making a classic looking dive watch, with modern improvements. The Pelagos appears to be every bit of a winner!

Pros - Great looking diver, very cool lug design

Consideration - Basic ETA movement

Specifications & Dimensions:
Case: Titanium
Case Diameter: 42mm
Case Back: Solid
Bezel: Cerachrom 
Crystal: Sapphire
Dial: Black
Bracelet: Titanium
Lug Width: N/A 
Movement: ETA 2824
Power Reserve: 38 hrs 
Water Resistant: 500m

March 20, 2012

Locman Montecristo Professional Diver Review

Locman Montecristo Professional Diver Watch Review

  Locman, a somewhat newer brand starting out in the later 1990’s, released a really nice looking new diver this year. The Locman Montecristo Professional Diver is an aesthetic stunner and should do quite well for Locman.
  The red accents have an excellent “pop” against the stark black dial and bezel. Many times on dive watches in particular the hands are not to W&R’s liking. The Montecristo hands have a nice shape, while adding a nice contrast. The watch is rated to 120m, this will strike some as odd for a diver, usually dive watches start at 200m. Not to fear, this watch has been tested extensively by S.I.O. and is even referenced at the 9 o’clock position. An awesome oversized crown adorns the Montecristo Professional Diver at the 3 o’clock position, along with a magnified date window. The lugs are skeletonized, adding a very unique look to this Locman. In the world of the over “saturated” dive watch market a little uniqueness goes a long way. The Montecristo is available with an automatic movement or quartz, with many dial and strap choices. Definitely worth checking out, the watch comes in on the lower side of 1K. 

Pros - Great looking diver, very cool lug design

Consideration - Extremely limited strap options do to lug design

Case: Stainless Steel
Case Diameter: 44mm
Case Back: Exhibition
Bezel: Unidirectional 
Crystal: Sapphire
Dial: Black
Strap: Black Rubber
Movement: Auto or Quartz
Power Reserve: N/A 
Water Resistant: 120m

March 19, 2012

Omega Seamaster James Bond 50th Anniversary

Omega Seamaster James Bond 50th Anniversary Watch Review
  Omega has officially unveiled the new James Bond 50th Anniversary Seamaster seen at this years Baselworld. This is the 41mm version being released as a limited edition of 11,007 pieces...not sure how limited that really is? This latest James Bond 007 edition keeps the same classic Seamaster styling that has defined the watch, along with some aesthetic differences. Most notably the dial has “007” monogram repeated consecutively at an upward angle. This has gone over with some mixed reviews. Not much middle ground here, either like or you don’t it appears. On the bezel, the “50” is highlighted in red, representing the 50 years of James Bond. Good idea, though, seems a bit out of place. If you are a diehard Bond fan, then it is probably perfect. The case back is gorgeous, it reveals the rotor that looks like the butt of bullet. Great attention to detail done here. Under the hood is a C.O.S.C. 2507 Co-axil self winding movement, with a 48 hour power reserve. Overall, the watch will have its place in the market, those that own one will surely love it.

Pros - Classic watch with James Bond twist

Consideration - Is it to much Bond?

Case: Stainless Steel
Case Diameter: 41mm
Case Back: Small Exhibition
Bezel: Unidirectional 
Crystal: Sapphire
Dial: Black
Bracelet: Stainless Steel
Movement: Co-axil 2507
Power Reserve: 48 hrs 
Water Resistant: 300m

March 16, 2012

Rado D-Star 200 Review

Rado D-Star 200 Dive Watch Review
  Rado has released a new diver for 2012, the D-Star 200. A nice and simple dressier diver for a change of pace. In the world of divers where the modo lately seems to be “go big or go home”, Rado delivers a great dressier sport watch. Coming in at a very manageable size of 42mm and a respectable 200m of water resistance, it will wear nicely. The dial is very clean for easy reading and is further enhanced by a ceramic external bezel. Ceramic has become a lot more popular as it is not prone to scratching and looks fantastic. The watch has that vintage Rado throw back vibe about it, with the lack of visible lugs and case shape. There is an ETA 2824-2 automatic movement powering the D-Star 200, with a nice exhibition case back as well. 
  If you like dive watches that can still be worn under a shirt, this should fit the bill. Rado generally offers a lot of watch for the money and the D-Star 200 should be no different.

Pros - New release, ceramic bezel

Consideration - Some feel exhibition case backs do not belong on divers

Case: Stainless Steel
Case Diameter: 42mm
Case Back: Exhibition
Bezel: Ceramic 
Crystal: Sapphire
Dial: Blue
Bracelet: Stainless Steel
Movement: ETA 2824-2
Power Reserve: 38 hrs 
Water Resistant: 200m

March 12, 2012

New Rolex New Sky-Dweller Review Basel 2012

New Rolex New Sky-Dweller Review Basel 2012
  Rolex unleashes an all new model for 2012, the Sky-Dweller. The name it’s self is drawing a lot of conversation on the watch forums and watch community. Seems you either like the name or you don’t, not much in between. 
  That said, this watch is special with dual time zones and an annual calendar. Another new all new is the the in-house Caliber 9001 automatic movement, with an astonishing 72 hour power reserve! The Caliber 9001 utilizes the Rolex Parachrom hairspring and has 40 jewels in the movement. What Rolex calls the a Ring Command Bezel is used to select one of three possible positions, used for the setting the date, local time, and second time zone. The Sky-Dweller has an annual calendar and recognizes months ending in 30 or 31 for example. W&R’s favorite aspect is the month indicator. In the picture above you can there is a black rectangle window at the 8 o’clock position signifying the month. These windows are at all 12 roman numeral positions. Very cool and innovative. Not a watch for everyone, but sure to pack a series punch. Coming in at 42mm, the Sky-Dweller is very versatile. Rolex continues to innovate, well done!

March 10, 2012

Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph Basel 2012 Review


Omega Speedmaster Racing Chronograph Basel 2012 Watch Review
 Omega comes out the gate swinging at Basel World 2012 with the all new Speedmaster Racing Chronograph, it’s a stunner. The Speedmaster is one of the most iconic watches, with a deep history, including being worn on the moon. When making changes to such a watch, it always carries critics. W&R is not sure there is much to complain about on the Speedmaster Racing, it looks great! 
  The Speedmaster Racing Chronograph will be offered in gray, gray/yellow, and gray red accent colors. Of course being a Speedmaster it has a tachymetre bezel, which also incorporates the accent color. The subdials are textured giving the dial that added bit of depth and contrast without being overbearing. Omega is using their Caliber 3330, with co-axial escapement that is housed in a very manageable 40mm case. If you like Omega and are in the market, this is one to definitely check out in person.

New Rolex Yacht-Master Blue Dial Basel 2012

New Rolex Yacht-Master Blue Dial Basel 2012
  Rolex appears to have nailed the design of the new Blue Dialed Yacht-Master! The red accents really help set this dial off against the blue sun burst dial. From the pics it appears the dial might sit a bit deeper under the sapphire crystal, this is unconfirmed. W&R always felt the Yacht-Master was to shallow from crystal to dial, not giving as much depth. Either way this watch looks sharp, can not wait to see it in the flesh! Platinum bezel of course!

March 2, 2012

Linde Werdelin Oktopus II Double Date Review

Basel 2012 - Linde Werdelin Oktopus II Double Date Review

  Linde Werdelin has a new Oktopus for 2012, the Oktopus II Double Date. This watch will most certainly be many a watch aficionados grail watch. Not only aesthetically a great looking watch, it is the ultimate luxury dive watch when used in in conjunction with Linde Werdelin’s Reef Dive Computer. 
  The dial is precision cut and resembles that of an octopus (oktopus in this case). The double date windows are featured predominately just below 12 o’clock. The Oktopus II uses a unique five piece case construction to ensure it’s water resistance of 300m. Under the “hood” the watch uses a caliber 14580 automatic movement in collaboration Dubois Depraz. The case back has a fantastic engraved octopus created by Morten Linde himself, the crown as well has an octopus. One of the many great aspects of this dive watch is the manageable size coming in at 44mm. The Oktopus II will be offered in three variants in a series of 88 worldwide. It will be available in titanium/ceramic, titanium/titanium DLC/with yellow accents, and finally rose gold/titanium. This is a hard watch not to like if you have the money to spend, starting point over 9K. 

Case: 3 variants to choose from
Case Diameter: 44mm
Case Back: Solid 
Bezel: Fixed
Crystal: Sapphire
Dial: Black or Black w/ Yellow Accents
Bracelet: Black Rubber or Yellow Rubber
Movement: 14580
Power Reserve: N/A
Water Resistant: 300m

Close up of the double date window with yellow accents: